Greetings, seekers of the extraordinary, pilgrims of the peculiar, and aficionados of the mysterious! Get ready to embark on a journey that transcends time and tradition, as we delve into the enigmatic realm of Rocamadour’s Black Madonna. Buckle up, because this isn’t your average stroll through history – it’s a rollercoaster ride of mystique, folklore, and the kind of secrets that make even the most seasoned conspiracy theorists raise an eyebrow. Join us as we lift the veil on the captivating tale of the Black Madonna in Rocamadour – where the sacred meets the sassy, and the divine dances with the downright delightful!
But What About Rocamadour?
It would be wrong to go straight into the details of the Black Madonna without first sharing some of the history of how Rocamadour came to be.
The village of Rocamadour is one of the great spiritual places of the Middle Ages, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the second most visited site in France after the Mont Saint-Michel. Its reputation is worldwide! And guess what? It is only 40 minutes away from Perigord Retreats!
This emblematic site of the Lot, vertical and majestic, crowned by its castle, unfolds in several levels, clinging to the cliff. The village is stacked vertically on rocks which fall 150 meters onto the bottom of the Alzou valley. It is an unmissable place in the Dordogne Valley. Still wondering how they built it…
Some of you loooove the origins of words (Yes, i’m talking to you, Chris ;)), so we feel duly obliged to how Rocamadour got its name. There are several possible origins. The first explanation would come from the words “Roca” (a rock shelter) and “major” (which means important). From 1166, the term is associated with the relics of Saint Amadour (Amadour is the pseudonym of Zacchaeus who was converted to Christianity by Jesus Christ, and whose relics were supposedly discovered in a cave on the cliff where the Chapel wad subsequently built). – Side note: If you want to hear my version of the story (call me cynical if you will) then you should join a workshop!
To fully experience the beauty of Rocamadour, there are three things that you can’t miss! Yes, the cliff might look daunting for those of you with mobility limitations, but they invented these amazing things called lifts (or elevators for those of you who come from a country that just had to put their twist on the English language) and Rocamadour has several!
First of all, there is the famous Notre Dame Chapel, accessible by a staircase of 216 steps. Next, you can explore the Château de Rocamadour, perched on a cliff above the town. Finally, you can walk through the town and admire the traditional stone houses and the breathtaking views of the surrounding area. The village consists of a single street, rue de la Couronnerie, very lively with its shops and restaurants. But, Rocamadour is also a little maze, with lots of more or less hidden corners, with lots of treasures to unearth, that you will discover during your stay at Perigord Retreats.
You will be amazed by this effervescent city! The magic of the place still operates, especially among artists, to awaken the senses: as soon as you arrive, you will have the impression of traveling back in time and will be able to discover the history of the pilgrims printed on the cliff. I always say the same thing to our guests. This town has operated in EXACTLY the same way for centuries. The only difference is that the town is now flooded with tourists in the warmer months instead of pilgrims. There are still the same B&Bs, the same restaurants and the same shops!
Indeed, this true place of spiritual ascension and mortification led pilgrims from the lower city to the square. Until recently, all pilgrims climbed the Grand Staircase (216 stone steps) on their knees as a sign of penance. (PHOTO: If you already came on a workshop with us, you know that I tell this story to all of the guests we have. But no one believes me! I mean, except Kimberly and Jody pictured below!) They prayed and asked for a miracle from Notre-Dame de Rocamadour, the Black Virgin.
Arriving at a vast open space surrounded by seven churches or chapels, you will discover the most important, the Notre-Dame chapel where the statue of the Black Virgin of Rocamadour is kept.
The Black Madonna
The Black Madonna has been watching over the pilgrims and visitors who have been exploring the city for more than a thousand years from the darkness of her chapel sheltered from the rock. She has her eyes closed and is carrying the baby Jesus sitting on her left knee. Mother and son appear crowned.
This frail silhouette, 76 cm high, carved from a piece of walnut wood from the 12th century (we will write an other blog about walnuts in the area, but the point is that walnuts are of great cultural significance in the region!), is dark in colour but it was not always like this: in the Middle Ages, it was entirely covered with precious metals and gems. Wear and tear and pillage gradually stripped it.
The reason for this dark colour is difficult to establish. We still don’t know why it was blackened after being polychromed. Previously, one could read on an old altarpiece: “Nigra sum sed formosa” which means “I am black but beautiful”. Black with all the suffering of the world that she carries within her like a true mother, and beautiful with her hope born at the foot of the Cross of her Son that she wants to make known to all her children.
It’s worth adding that the legends and myths surrounding Black Madonnas often intertwine with stories of miracles and supernatural events. Some believe that the darkened color represents a divine mystery, while others attribute miraculous occurrences and healings to the presence of these sacred images. The veneration of Black Madonnas has persisted for centuries, and pilgrims continue to seek spiritual solace and connection through their devotion to these revered icons. The stories and beliefs surrounding Black Madonnas contribute to the rich tapestry of religious and cultural traditions, offering a glimpse into the enduring fascination and reverence for these enigmatic representations of the Virgin Mary.
Every Saturday and Sunday, at 11 a.m. you can attend mass.
We are often asked the question: “What can I wear to enter a church in France? “.
Come as you are: there is no dress code required, unlike in certain countries like Italy or the Vatican where you need to cover your shoulders or knees.
Food For Thought
As we bid adieu to the mysterious veiled lady of Rocamadour, the Black Madonna, we find ourselves caught in a dance between the sacred and the enigmatic. Like a waltz in the moonlit courtyard of this ancient pilgrimage site, her presence lingers, inviting us to question, to marvel, and to ponder the secrets she guards. As we step away from the hallowed sanctuary, let us carry with us not just the echoes of history but also the joy of having waltzed with the enigma, leaving our thoughts pirouetting on the edge of wonder. After all, in the realm of the Black Madonna, the dance of mystery is eternal, and we’re but humble partners in this captivating choreography of the divine. If there is one place you shouldn’t miss, it is certainly this one!